关麓Guanlu
is located on the foothills of
西武岭Xiwuling. Because Xiwuling had be called
西武岭雄关Xiwuling Guan (Xiwuling pass) and because the village is on its east foot (
麓lu), hence its name
关麓Guanlu.
Like
西递Xidi,
宏村Hongcun and
南屏Nanping of the same county, Guanlu is known for its centuries old village architectures.
Its well-known "eight family houses" were built during the
清朝Qing dynasty (1644-1911) by eight Hui merchant brothers of the same
汪Wang clan. What is unusual about these eight large houses are its physical connection. Each building has its living rooms, garden, and courtyard; but each also has a doored hallway that connects through the next building, forming a single structure.
Guanlu is the latest in the list of well-known villages of 黟县Yixian county to be promoted as a tourist site. Mr. Ye of Nanping informed me that Guanlu has about 100 households with a population of about 400. And it has been open to public for 2-3 years, since 2003. Prior to my arrival at Nanping I did not know the existence of this village; but when my bus stopped at the entrance road to Nanping I noticed a wall sign with the Guanlu's name and an arrow
pointing west 3km. Later I asked Mr. Ye, and he said Guanlu is well-known for its eight linked houses and is worth a visit. So I went. The small village had 3 guides. I went in and my beautiful guide took me around carrying a ring of keys. At each building she had to unlock the door, then relock it when we were done. Some of the 8 buildings were desperately in need of repair, so we cannot go in those; but the ones I did get to see were a discovery. It is akin to uncovering a cave and seeing
what is inside for the first time. The gold painted carvings in the room literally glows. They are amazingly well-preserved. Unfortunately, I could not take any photos of the interior due to the low lights and its inaccessibility.
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Travel Information
Getting There:
关麓Guanlu is in 黄山市Huangshan city's 黟县Yixian (Yi county), so one usually get a ride from there to the village. There are buses to both 黟县Yixian(Y9 and takes about 45mins - 60mins in 2006) and 歙县Shexian (Y5 and takes about 30mins in 2006) counties from outside 屯溪Tunxi's bus station. Be aware that the counties are in the opposite directions, so confirm with the driver that it is going in your destination. see map.
From Yixian, there are public buses(Y2 - Y3 and takes about 30mins in 2006) to the villages, whicn includes 西递Xidi, 宏村Hongcun, 南屏Nanping and 关麓Guanlu.
To get to Guanlu, you will pass Nanping on your way. So mind as well visit both villages. At the time I was here, the road to Nanping was under construction (summer 2006), so it took longer than normal to get there. But the road from Nanping to Guanlu was a smooth paved 3 km road. The public buses normally waits from across a short stone bridge not far from the bus station. Signboards with the name of the villages are usually placed on the driver's front window; if not, confirm with the driver that it is going to your village. If you are in a hurry and there is no public buses there are always plenty of minivans for hire that will take you there(about Y15). Other alternatives are to hire a van in Tunxi and go straight to the village. This may cost alot more(probably about Y100), but if you have several people this may be much faster and easier.
Accomodations:
Family-style guesthouses are what you will get here. It is a very small village (about 400 people) and had opened for tourists only a few years, so there are no hotels. But anyone will be very happy to take you into their homes for the night for a very small service fee (Y20 and up). As there were also no real resturant, the family will cook you food as well. Most visitors came around for a short look and leave, but if you like the peace (no tourists -- not yet, but better hurry) and no-frill accomodations, it would be an experience to remember. An alternative would be to stay in Nanping village, which is much easier to stay and eat, and visit Guanlu in the day.
Miscellaneous:
Foreigners, or at least non-Chinese, need to get a permit to see these places. The permit can be obtain from Tunxi's PSB. As I have never looked at one, I don't know what is involve. Inevitably, there is a fee, which I had read to be about 60 yuan. Just be sure that the permit has the places listed on the permit.
Entrance Ticket:
25 Yuan. Includes a guide, who has the keys to the important buildings.