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clay figure of 钟馗 Zhong Kui

Arts and Crafts that I bought along my travels

This part of the 秦朝Qin dynasty(221 - 206) Wall is located about 7 km. from 固阳县Guyang, a county 60 km. north of 包头市Baotou city in 内蒙古Neimenggu (Inner Mongolia) Province. The stone Wall snakes atop the 色尔腾山Seerteng Shan hills for 85 km, passing three towns along the way. Unlike later Walls made of earth, gravels, and bricks, this Qin Great Wall is constructed of mostly heavy stone slates that were stacked up to form the barrier. Its stones were locally quarried and carved into flat pieces; originally greenish and yellowish in color, but after more than 2000 years of embracing the elements, the slabs had turned black.

After the First Unification, the Qin general 蒙恬Meng Tian led a large expedition up north against the 匈奴Xiongnu. After he drove the steppe warriors beyond the 黄河Huang He (Yellow River), he remained in the area to direct the construction of the Great Wall. This Qin Wall is now generally agreed to be an original part of that early project, although others argued that it may be a 北魏(后魏)Northern Wei dynasty (386 - 534) Wall. 1

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Travel Info

秦长城Qin Wall

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     秦 Qin Wall
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     秦 Qin Wall
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     秦 Qin Wall
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     秦 Qin Wall
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     秦 Qin Wall
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     秦 Qin Wall
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     秦 Qin Wall

    After two thousand years, much of the original Qin Wall now lay buried deep under the ground. But here you can see some of the original stacked stones exposed from a broken section.

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     秦 Qin Wall - Rolling Hills

    The beautifull rolling hills in the area.

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     秦 Qin Great Wal - Industrial Town

    A nearby industrial town.

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     秦 Qin Wall - Watch Tower

    A lone watch tower stands besides the road close to a new tourist entrance to the Wall.

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After a short ride from 固阳Guyang, I reached the Wall. I was here just after the entrance gate had closed, but there was a stone stairway on the side of the hill that goes up to the Wall. Once up, I saw the Wall lying quietly on the side of the smooth rolling hills. The part I saw had none of the scale and drama of other sections of the Great Wall, but on the colorful hills it had charms. So many years passed like falling leaves, much of the old Wall just got buried by the gifts of wind. And in its most active days, a hillful of sheeps may wander about its lost borders; so little was here to keep it amused that it got depressed like a forgotten hero. Much of the original Wall is now beneath the surface; on top are the new stones that followed the ancient buried Wall. In the two hours or so here, I met a group of Guyang natives touring the site. It was their first time here since the area was promoted as a tourist place recently. They were proud that the poor county now has a national treasure in their vicinity. Hopefully, it will help its economy.

On leaving I walked toward the direction to Guyang, and waved at any vehicle along the way. No one stopped. Half an hour later I met a man sitting and smoking by the roadside. He is from 河南省Henan Province, and he worked in the nearby factory that makes firecrackers. He pointed to the group of flat-roofed brick houses not far below the road. I squatted and spoke with him for a little more while I looked at the surrounding landscape. The crescent road is a cut from the slope of one hill after another. Off the hills is the vast earthy and reddish flat land — empty except for a short parallel line of trees. On this wide secluded land the firecracker factories were as quiet as a madman in crowded street. I left another half hour later with no luck getting a ride. So I continued my way toward the county. After another half hour of waving, a cargo truck finally stopped for me. Two locals were returning to Guyang. I climbed up the big truck and squeezed in. The men were in their late thirties, with the looks of those that build a country. They appeared to be tired, so the ride was quiet. At close to the town, I wanted to pay for the ride, but they refused. I had to insist several times til they finally accepted it.  

portrait of a Uygur girl

Travelogues and travel notes

Travel Information

Getting There:

From the long-distance bus station in 包头市东河区Baotou's Donghe district, take the bus(Y10) north to 固阳县Guyang county. The ride takes about an hour, but normally one waits another 40min. for it to start moving. From Guyang, take any bus(Y3.5) going north. The bus will pass the Qin Wall, which is 7 km. away beside the road. You will see flags and a large stone relief of the first emperor. Tell the driver to let you off here. The ticket booth is nearby. Alternatively, one can always hire a motuo motor bike(Y10-15) to get there.

Entrance Ticket:

I think it was 20 yuan. (summer 2006)

Miscellaneous:

Wear thick-soled shoes as the ground has plenty of sharp stones to accompany you.