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  • 中国地图Map of China
  • 山西地图Map of Shanxi

平遥县Pingyao county is located near the center of 山西省Shanxi province, about 100km from 太原Taiyuan, the provincial capital. This historically cultural town had an early existence, since the time of 宣王King Xuan (827 - 782) of 西周Western Zhou dynasty, about 2700 years ago. During the 春秋时代Spring and Autumn Era, it was part of the 晋国Jin state, then later absorbed by the 赵国Zhao state, one of the final seven conquering states of the 战国时代Warring States Era (475 - 221). With the establishment of the First Empire, the 秦朝Qin (221 - 206), a policy of 「郡县制」"System of commmanderies and counties" to divide the empire into prefectures and counties was put into action; Pingyao was then designated as a county, called 平陶Pingtao. By the 汉朝Han, it was renamed to中都Zhongdu. Its present name appeared during the 北魏Northern Wei dynasty (424). Its famous city wall was built during the 明朝Ming dynasty in the third year of 洪武Hongwu (1370).

The 12 meters high walls has a perimeter of about 6km, with 4 corner towers, 3000 battlements and 72 enemy towers - numbers that are said to follow Confucius' 3000 students and 72 disciples. Entrance to the town are through six barbican gates - one each on the north and south side and two each on the east and west side. The interior town layout is the classic rectangular grid pattern with the drum tower in its center intersected by four wide east-west and north-south roads; eight minor roads intersects these four and 72 lanes fill in the gaps. Taking up the land are about 3797 courtyard-style building; among them are about 400 well-preserved buildings and storefronts, some from the Ming era, but most are from the Qing. Sourrounding this walled town is a moat about 4 meters wide and equally deep. While I was there (2006), the moat was waterless and covered with vegetation. A large area of the walkway around the exterior walls are made into parks with trees and flowers. As I walked around the walls, I noticed visible cracks on its brick skin; signs are posted to warn people not stay close to the sides. The interior side of the walls are cushioned with rammed earth, the traditional technique used for wall construction in dry desert-like areas. Repairs and reconstruction was underway on these sections of the wall.

Outside the walled town is the much larger outer town where all the common things are: the cars, the hotels, the train and bus stations, the markets, the businesses, the local people at work...etc. One can easily get bored inside the walls where everything seems quite similar. But at night it is much more exciting with all the lights glow, and everything gets quiet except the sweet sounds of people returning home on their bikes.

These historical structures aside, Pingyao's real importance lied in its position as the hub of China's first 「票号」"Piaohao", banking institutions. In the late Qing (1800's), this county was the headquarters of more than 50% of the nation's banks, comprising 22 in total. Its influence and stretch was enough that branches were set up in Japan, Singapore and Russia. The first and most influential was the 「日升昌」"Rishengchang". It is still in its original location and you can visit it along with dozens of other locations within the massive walls.