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image of a group of Mongolian gersimage of dunes near Baotou city

Enjoy the wide 希拉穆仁草原Xilamuren grassland, the huge dunes of 响沙湾Xiangshawan, and the ancient Wall of the 秦Qin state in 内蒙古Neimenggu (Inner Mongolia).

山海关Shanhaiguan Pass

, called 榆关Yuguan in the past, is in 河北省Hebei province, about 15 km. from 秦皇岛Qinhuangdao's city center. A strategic pass in the northeast since antiquity, its present fortress and Wall were built in the fourteenth year (1381) of the 洪武Hongwu reign during the 明朝Ming dynasty (1368-1644) by the great general, 徐达Xu Da. To its northwest lies the 燕山脉Yanshan mountain range, and to its east the 渤海Bohai sea marks the end of land — thus, comes the name 山海关Shanhaiguan (Pass between Mountain and Water).

Shanhaiguan has 4 gates, of which the most well-known and the most important is the town's east gate, called 镇东门Zhendongmen. But because poetics and drama stick to the populace more, this gate has since been known as "天下第一关城楼"(The First Pass Under Heaven Gate Tower) or simply the "第一关城楼"(The First Pass Gate Tower). This is due to the huge board hanging on the face of the gate tower with the four large characters "天下第一关" written by the Ming calligrapher 萧显Xiao Xian. The gate walls are 14 meters high and 7 meters thick, and these surround an inner town with a perimeter of 4 kilometers. The Great Wall connects to The First Pass and runs 26 kilometers across the town and up the western hills, and links the 老龙头 Old Dragon Head to the 渤海Bohai Sea in the east.

老龙头Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) is about 4 kilometers south of Shanhaiguan. The "Dragon's Head" refers to the group of structures that converges on the 渤海Bohai Sea. The most dramatic is the section that enters the water, called “入海石城”(The Stone Fort Entering the Sea). As I stood on the shore observing its profile, "Old Dragon's Head" I thought: the ancient mythological beast's long jaw, knotty forehead and scaled neck reveals itself as it slowly submerges and retires to the sea. After tens of thousands of li — from its desert tail end through mostly barren highllands and wastelands, then descending toward east, winding through its rolling green hills and craggy mountains — its quiet head finally reaches into water and urges for the depth of the sea.

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Travel Info
image of Pingyao streetimage of the main gate tower to the Chang family's compound and gardern

The compounds and manors of the extreme wealthy in 山西Shanxi's small towns and villages. See the old town of 平遥Pingyao with well-preserved Ming and Qing city wall and street layout.

image of Tulufan's Emin Minaretimage of the ruins in Tulufan's Gaochang Ruins

See 吐鲁番Tulufan's well-known attractions -- 苏公塔Sugonta (Emin Minaret), 高昌城Gaochang Ruins, and 火焰山Huoyan Shan (Flaming Mountains).

山海关，老龙头Shanhai Guan(Pass) and Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

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     山海关 - 天下第一关 (镇东门) Shanhaiguan Pass - First Pass Gate Tower (Zhendongmen Gate)

    The square area before the gate tower.

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     山海关 - 天下第一关 (镇东门) Shanhaiguan Pass - First Pass Gate Tower (Zhendongmen Gate)

    On the face of the grand 镇东门Zhendongmen tower is the written these large black characters: 天下第一关 (The First Pass Under Heaven).

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     山海关 - 天下第一关 (镇东门) Shanhaiguan Pass - First Pass Gate Tower (Zhendongmen Gate)
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     山海关 - 天下第一关 (镇东门) Shanhaiguan Pass - First Pass Gate Tower (Zhendongmen Gate)

    The wide square before 天下第一关 (The First Pass Under Heaven) gate tower.

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     山海关 Shanhaiguan Pass

    A corner of the fortress.

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     山海关 - 城楼 Shanhaiguan Pass - Gate Tower

    On the top level of the fortress.

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     山海关 Shanhaiguan Pass

    A view below the Wall.

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     山海关 - 湖，园 Shanhaiguan Pass - Lake and Park

    The lake and garden inside the fortress.

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     山海关 Shanhaiguan Pass

    The Wall stretches quite far through the town, but most are in ruins and covered with thick vegetation. These unrestored parts are blocked with walls, so one cannot get through.

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     山海关 Shanhaiguan Pass

    On top of one stretch of the Wall extending from the gate tower.

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     山海关 Shanhaiguan Pass

    Detail of the Wall's parapet, an architectural design meant for the bow and the crossbow.

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     老龙头 - 城楼 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Tower

    The tower overlooking the Dragon Head and the 渤海Bohai sea.

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     老龙头 - 亭 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Pavillion

    A gallery of stone tablets. An important original piece is housed inside a pavillion.

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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

    The Dragon stretches its Head into the 渤海Bohai sea.

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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

    A viewing area a few steps below the Dragon Head.

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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

    The Old Dragon Head had been reconstructed in eighties. These are Ming stones of the original Dragon Head on display right on the structure.

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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

    Side view of the Dragon Head.

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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

    Side view of the Dragon Head as it enters the sea.

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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)
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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)
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     老龙头 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head)

    From the shore looking toward the temple complex.

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     老龙头 - 石碑 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Stone Tablet

    A large stone tablet before the entrance to the temple complex. The burden of carrying the heavy stone usually goes to the unlucky tortoise. Temple (usually Daoist) are normally built near important sections of the Great Wall

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     老龙头 - 庙 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Temple

    A stone bridge leads to the entrance gate of the temple complex.

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     老龙头 - 庙(天后宫) Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Temple

    Courtyard of the temple complex.

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     老龙头 - 走廊 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Corridor

    The long corridor around the temple complex.

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     老龙头 - 走廊 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Corridor

    The long corridor around the temple complex.

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     老龙头 - 亭 Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head) - Pavillion

    The grand pavillion extending out from the temples toward the sea.

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戚继光Qi Jiguang, the Ming army general of the area (then called 蓟镇Jizhen) directed the construction of Laolongtou during the worthless 万历Wanli reign. It was built with much difficulites: when the tide subsided, the entire army worked rapidly stacking the stones, but then the tides soon returned, destroying much of work; this went back and forth til the work was completed. The structure was restored several times during the 清朝Qing dynasty (1644-1911). During the 1980s, Dragon Head was entirely reconstructed according to old records. Some pieces of the original stones were incorporated back into the construction. Other pieces are on display on the top level of the Dragon Head.

After visiting The First Pass gate tower, I went into the nearby Shanhaiguan Great Wall Museum. Besides the panaramic view of many sections of the Great Wall, there is an excellent collection of early gun-powered weapons used on the Wall: the first cannons made out of stones and cast iron; and the proto rifles and handguns, which would eventually evolved into the first true handguns. Anyone visiting Shanhaiguan should drop in this museum for a look.  

portrait of a Uygur girl

Travelogues and travel notes

Travel Information

Getting There:

At the time I headed down to 山海关Shanhaiguan from 沈阳市Shenyang city by rail. The Pass is a district of 秦皇岛Qinhuangdao, and it has its own station. It is a short ride from Qinhuangdao city and about 3 hours ride from 北京Beijing. Shanhaiguan's gate towers are visible from the train station. Buses from Qinhuangdao city will also get here. To get to 老龙头Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head): From the Shanhaiguan town take #25路(lu) public bus(Y1), which will get there in 10-15 minutes.

Accomodations:

There are a lot of expensive hotels as well as cheap guesthouses outside the Walled town.

Entrance Ticket:

40 yuan for Shanhaiguan. Includes entrance to the Shanhaiguan Great Wall Museum. Y50 for Laolongtou (Old Dragon Head). (summer 2006)